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Dirty carburetor from ethanol gasoline use

Dirty carburetor from ethanol gasoline use

Does your car sit idle for months? Do you use Ethanol Gasoline? This shit is what happens inside your fuel system as the ethanol gas evaporates. When we opened up this carb last week, the dry sand like debris was actually twice the size and looked like a brown jelly substance. No wonder this car wouldn’t start or run!
How do you prevent ethanol gas damage in your fuel system? Simple! Buy ethanol free gasoline, now available in certain counties in Maryland. Or use a good Enzyme Fuel Treatment. Enzyme treatments are available at most auto supply and marine stores. CPR uses Startron Enzyme treatment exclusive.

Battery 101

There are a couple times a year when humidity, heat, or cold, and other elements, result in battery problems.
WHAT KIND OF PROBLEMS?battery terminal corrosion
The problems that are most common result in battery draw or insulation from recharging. When starting,  there is a big current draw to turn the engine over. When charging at low current flow,  it takes very little resistance to reduce or prevent charging the battery from the generator. What kind of resistance? Any kind of corrosion as shown in the photo. Or a “blackening” of the positive or negative terminal. All terminals and cable connectors need to be cleaned to a Bright Color to make a good low resistance connection. If you have any White or Green Stuff on your your battery terminals, you also probably have conductivity across the top of the battery positive to negative terminals. This is a very low current draw on your battery. Over time your battery can go dead. Clean the terminals and the battery top with Baking Soda and Water.

Hot Rod Wiring Do’s and Don’ts

dash wiring in progressAre you building your dream car or are you contemplating buying a custom one-of-a-kind car that was built by someone else? I have bought a few custom built cars over the years. Many of these car builds were done by “professional” builders. Others were done by guys just building their dream machine. For me,  many of them had one big mistake in common. You would think, with all the very nice after-market wiring kits out there, rewiring an old car or building a new one would be easy and without any mistakes. Well, from my perspective,  a very common simple, overlooked problem plagues many “one off” builds. Even cars built by “big time” builders.

Has this every happened to you? You are driving down the road in your custom ride. It’s got a super paint job. It has an awesome interior, a thunderous engine, and a head turning sound. You’re crusin. You’re getting looks and “thumbs up”.  Your car suddenly quits… Dead… You are sitting there thinking “what the heck happened?” After a little help and advice from bystanders watching you ponder your problem under the hood of your ride, you think “the electric fuel pump isn’t working.” Somewhere you come up with a test light and discover you have no “power” at the pump. Well, all you have to do now is look at the “fuel pump” fuse. “Holy Crap!  Where is the fuse block!?”

Well you can bet the fuse block is in the car somewhere, but where? I’ve been there.  Most builders put fuse blocks in a very logical place, then build the car around it, hiding the fuses from plain sight. If you didn’t build the car,  you probably didn’t get any instructions on how to access the fuses. Finding the fuse block can be a nightmare. Once located,  seeing, checking or removing a fuse can only be accomplished by a contortionist!

If you are building a car, spend a lot of time contemplating the location for your fuse block. If you buy a custom built car,  ask and document the location of fuses, relays, and wire looms. Troubleshooting an electrical problem with poorly placed fuses and wiring can be a nightmare! If a wiring diagram didn’t come with your custom build,  see if you can “pick the brain” of the builder.  Take notes.  If you can’t trace the build history… well…. good luck!

Sooner or later you will have to check a fuse. If “Murphy” has anything to do with the timing for a fuse check, it will be at a time and place that will have you exclaiming, “who put it there!!?”

A Perfect Paint Application…

A perfect paint application starts at bare metal. Our process has changed and is better!

How the old paint is removed, getting down for the bare metal respray has always been a “process”. Currently, here at Easton Muscle & Custom, we think we have a better method to get the paint, bondo and undercoating off – and preserve your car’s body in the process.

Previously, we would laboriously strip to bare metal by blasting with reconstituted glass. Hand strip the undercoating, then use epoxy primer to stop rust.

a car after ecoating

Now, we send the disassembled shell out and have it dipped in a tank that removes everything down to bare metal. There is no metal distortion, which can happen with blasting. Paint and rust are removed in areas that we could not blast. The stripped shell is then put into another tank and the stripper is neutralized. This is a crucial step. If not neutralized completely, the etching process will continue for years. Once neutralized, the shell is ecoated – a process used by the factory. Ecoating is the black finish. It goes everywhere there is bare metal due to the electrical charge difference between the charge on the body and the charge of the paint. The coating is attracted to the bare metal and will end up as a uniform thickness over the entire body. It gets into the tiny seams and crevasses that spraying primer cannot get to, because of the air pressure blow back. Ecoat will prevent rust almost forever. It is the best investment you can make when restoring your car.

Of Mice and Mold

No, this is not a story of the adventures of Lenny. Rather, many Classic Car owners are faced with the age old problem of storage for their pride and joy, until warm weather reappears. Two of the big problems facing a car during the storage period, are Mice and Mold or mildew.

Mold is a pretty ugly entry into the interior that can ruin any future driving experiences. Sometimes by sickening odors, and in bad cases, by unhealthy contaminates. It is far easier to prevent mold or mildew, than it is to remove it. Ultimately, storing your car in a climate controlled environment with plenty of clean air circulating, is the best. Baring that, inside with little moisture and some air circulation helps. Moisture absorbing products, such as those found at the boat store, are very effective.

What if you already have mold or a mildew problem? Well, a proper cleaning is the best way to begin. A thorough treatment, either by an Ozone generator or with an aerosol anti-fungal, seems to be effective in eliminating mold.

There are a few good Detailers and Mold Specialist companies who can help eradicate the Mold problem in your Porsche. You might also try a product from Biocide Labs, (www.biocidelabs.com) an aerosol product. Wear a good mask and follow the technician’s instructions on the use of this product.

OF MICE – the little four-legged creatures who love to take up residence in your vehicle. They nest in your seats, eat your electrical wires, and other unpleasant things.

a dead mouse

I once was told that the soap “Irish Spring” worked better. So, I went out and bought all the Irish Spring on the shelves and put 2 or 3 bars in each car. Well, the mice love Irish Spring either as a snack or for Sunday dinner. None of the bars were left next spring – only the typical droppings!

The best mouse protection is to keep your vehicle inside an area that is mouse proof. I have heard and seen all sorts of “mouse proof” areas. Working with a tight as possible garage, and using and checking good old snap traps regularly, is a pretty darn good approach. I don’t recommend mouse poison bait. A lot of the bait ends up inside your car before it kills the mouse. Other things, like moth balls, herbal concoctions, soap, commercial sprays, powders and gels help, but are not in the 75% or better “sure fire effective” area. I would say they can’t hurt.

a mouse nest in a stored car

Pretty good results seem to be coming from the Electronic Repellents, or ultra sound generators, that plug into the outlets in your garage. The newer ones hook up to your car battery and install inside your car. They go where ever your car goes. They are a low draw, so should not result in a dead battery. However; a battery tender for long un-used periods would be a good addition.

If you have a few good ideas, or things you know will solve the “mouse” problem, send them to us at sales@eastonmuscleandcustom.com. We will share them in our next eLetter.